Wednesday, June 20, 2007

Hell's Gate

Dear Dany Tarigan,
Hell's Gate is located near Boston Bar on Trans Canada Highway #1, about 250 km from Vancouver. When British Explorer Simon Fraser reached here in 1808 he called "awesome gorge", but at the same time was his "greatest challenge" because of the difficulty in passing through during his expedition. Here the mighty Fraser River has to pass a 35 m narrow gorge, and creates a very strong rapid that is too fast for salmon to go upstream to spawn. Fraser River is best known as the North America's greatest salmon stream. Five species of salmon run the Fraser to spawn: chinook, chum, coho,
pink and sockeye. But with joint effort between USA and Canada, the "International Fishways" were constructed and opened in 1945. The salmon survival rates was much improved since then.

In 1971 the Hell's Gate Airtram was built for public transportation to the Fishways, as it was set for tourist destination. There are 2 trams in operation, and they both move at the same time, one from the top end and the other from the lower end, as both are connected to the same cable. It is open for public between April - October. Access to the Fishways is only by the
Airtram. It takes about 3 minutes tram ride each way for a distance of 345 m, and a vertical drop of 160 m. These are the things you can do and see: fisheries exhibit, suspension bridge and observation decks, interpretive signage, Salmon House Restaurant, a fudge factory, a cafe, a souvenir shop, gold panning and watching the fishways and the rapids.

I have visited Hell's Gate a few times in the past. The last time I went there was in 2003. It took about 3 hours drive from Vancouver to get there, following Highway #1 past Hope going along the deep and treacherous Fraser Canyon. Highway #1 that traverses along the Canyon was built basically along the Gold Rush trail of 1860's from Fort Langley to Cache Creek. It was an engineering feat in road constructions, and necessitated building tunnels in 5 places because of the steep mountain cliffs. At Hell's Gate, half way down from the level of Highway #1 and the Fishway there are 2 railway tracks, one on the east side of the river belongs to the Canadian Nationals (CN), and one on the west side belongs to the Canadian Pacific Railways (CPR). Both tracks are also engineering feats in construction, because the railroads cling precariously to both sides of the steep cliffs of the Canyon. British Columbia joined the Confederation in 1871 with a promise of railroad being built to join with Eastern Canada within 10 years. But because of difficult terrain of Fraser Canyon, the last spike for the CPR line was driven in November 7, 1885, 4 years late. It was considered as one of the most remarkable engineering epic of Canadian achievement. CN railway tracks were completed much later in 1913.

Top photo: Observation Deck and the Airtram. Suspension Bridge on the background.
Middle: The "Fishways" on the left bank of the Fraser River, and the Rapid.
Bottom: Suspension Bridge looking across to the Observation Deck. It is used for emergency only, if airtram is malfunction for example. The CN tracks is just 10 m away. There is a steep trail going up to Highway #1 above.

Wednesday, June 13, 2007

Tallest Building

Dear Mustakim Abdurrauf,
The tallest building in Vancouver is the "Sheraton Wall Centre" at 1088 Burrard Street, with 48 floors and a height of 150 m. The first 27 floors of the building are a 4.5 star "Sheraton" hotel. The next 3 floors from 28-30 are the "Club Intrawest Resort", and the remaining 17 floors are residential condominiums. As shown on photo, the tallest building is the tall building just behind the white domed roof of the BC Place stadium. Second tallest building in Vancouver is the "Shaw Tower", hidden behind tall buildings at centre, because it was built on the lower elevation at Coal Harbour with 41 floors and 149 m high. And still under construction is the "Living Shangri-La" at 1120 West Georgia, with scheduled completion in 2008, with 62 storeys and a height of 197 m, will be the newest tallest building in Vancouver.

But these are insignificant if compared with other tallest building in the world. According to the "Council of Tall Building and Urban Habitat (CTBUH)", an international organization based in Chicago, USA, in their last "World Congress" meeting in 2006 determined that the tallest building in the world today are:
1."Taipei 101" in Taiwan. Completed in 2004, with 101 floors and a height of 508 m.
2."Petronas Tower" in Malaysia. Completed in 1998, with 88 floors and a height of 452 m.
3."Sears Tower" in Chicago. Completed in 1974, with 108 floors and a height of 442 m.
4."Jin Mao Tower" in Shanghai. Completed in 1998, with 88 floors and a height of 421 m.
5."Two International Finance Centre" in Hongkong. Completed in 2003, with 88 floors and 415 m.
The former "World Trade Centre (WTC)" in New York, with 110 floors and a height of 417 m, was used to be the tallest building in the world when it was completed in 1973. As we all know, that the WTC was destroyed by terrorist attack in September 11, 2001.
The "Jakarta Tower" which is still under construction with scheduled completion in 2009 with a height of 558 m will be the tallest building in the world. But hang in there for a minute, the "Center of India Tower" in Katangi, India with scheduled completion in 2008, with a height of 677 m, will surpass Jakarta Tower by a big margin. And not only that "Burj Dubai" tower in Dubai, United Arab Emirates with scheduled completion in 2009, with a height of 808 m, will surpass all of the above and will become the tallest building in the world. But the race for the tallest building in the world doesn't stop there and still more to come.

There are plans to build "Marjan Tower" in Bahrain with 200 floors and a staggering height of 1022 m, with a plan designed by a company from Denmark, and "Mubarak al-Kabir Tower" in Kuwait with a height of 1001 m. It sounds crazy and incredibly mind boggling. With the collapsed of WTC by terrorist attack I wonder whether it is really worth the risk to live and congregate large numbers of people in a single tall building. And also it will come down to huge amount of money available and the strain to the engineering technology to design such task. But they think they figured them all, so we have to just wait and see.

Meanwhile here in Vancouver, where real estate is so plentiful, there is no reason why they should build ever higher and higher.
Photo: "Sheraton Wall Centre", the tallest building in Vancouver. A view from my jogging route.

Monday, May 28, 2007

Chestnut Trees

Dear Harry Hutapea,
This is East 10th Avenue in Vancouver East. Both sides of the street are lined up with mature chestnut trees, tall and majestic to 15 m high. They are deciduous trees, which mean that they are leafless during winter as shown on top photo. I pass by this street every time I do jogging. The trees form a canopy or an umbrella, and feel pleasant whenever I jog by. I took these photos at 2 different times in the last few months:

Top photo was taken last March 2,2007. The trees were without leaves.
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Middle photo was taken from the same spot 2 1/2 months later in May 25,2007. The trees were full of leaves and blooms.
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Bottom photo shows the chestnut tree with it's white blooms.

The blooms will turn into spiny fruits and fall to the ground around November. I picked some of them last year, and inside each fruit there were 2-3 chestnuts. You can boil the chestnuts and eat, or you can also have the "chestnuts roasting on an open fire....." like it says in a Christmas song. But I gave them away to my neighbour.

Monday, May 21, 2007

Nanaimo 2

Dear Sugeng,
I wrote you last February 25,2007 about Nanaimo. Well this is kind of the sequel. I went there again last May 1,2007 for 2 weeks to visit Tan's family and their restaurant in North Nanaimo. This time I boarded the "Queen of Cowichan" from Horseshoe Bay ferry terminal. It is a large ferry that can carry 360 cars and 1500 passengers.

There was a lot of activities going on at the Horseshoe Bay ferry terminal. It was due primarily by the transportation requirements for the 2010 Winter Olympics in Whistler.
There was road expansion of the sea to sky highway at the Horseshoe Bay, better access for cars & passengers to the ferry terminal, and the expansion to the terminal "A" pier for the new Super-C class ferry that is forthcoming.
The road expansion to Whistler at Horseshoe Bay would be the building of overhead pass to by pass the congestion from ferry line up that on long weekends sometimes could stretched up to 3 km long on the Trans Canada #1. For that purpose they needed to cut the hills and trees on the hills. But some people did not take kindly on that idea, resulting in the sit in protest by local residents and environmentalist groups. There were also complaints about the noises and dusts generated from the constructions. But after some considerations and assurances from authorities, the constructions started again full steam ahead.

Cars access to the ferry terminal was also needed upgrading, because the bottlenecks that were created by the long line up prevented smooth flows of traffics to go to Squamish and Whistler. Toll booths and the waiting rooms for cars going to the ferry needed to be expanded too. With 2 scheduled ferry delays for example, and it is not uncommon, about 2000 cars would be waiting on the line up. That is a lot of cars. So they are creating up to 24 lanes over 1 km distance space for cars lining up for the ferry. It would be a huge parking lot for sure. And the construction on the hilly rocky granite of Horseshoe Bay also posed some challenges. So far they were making progress.

There are 3 terminals at Horseshoe Bay, they call them terminals A,B and C. The A was needed to be upgraded, to be made stronger and wider. Work was underway at terminal A and at Departure Bay terminal, to prepare for the berths of the new Super-C class that are currently under construction in West Germany. There was a controversy that the tender for the ferry construction was not awarded to B.C. company. But because the local company was quoting much higher price, and the previous experience of "way over budget and way not on time delivery", the construction was given to foreign company. So far the news on the new ferry is "on time and on budget". The first ferry would be called "Coastal Renaissance" and expected the operation start in November 2007 for the Horseshoe Bay - Departure Bay route. The 2 other ferries, "Coastal Inspiration" and "Coastal Celebration" would come in stages for the next 2 years. They would be used for the Tsawwassen - Swartz Bay route. Evidently the Super-C class ferry is 160 metres long, can carry 370 cars and 1650 passengers with a speed of 21 knots.
Top photo shows the activities at terminal A, where piles were being readied to be driven deep down to the ocean floors, reportedly up to 22 piles. A project of 2 1/2 years and would be summer 2007 completion.

I was helping the Tan's in the restaurant again this time mostly as waiter. But something unusual happened. The Canucks hockey team making the play off. Good news for hockey fans but bad news for Tan's restaurant. Because every time Canucks shown on TV, few customers coming in for dinner, most customers prefer to stay home and watch hockey on the tube instead. The Tan's quietly wished that the Canucks would loose and out of the play off. But lunch time was always busy anyway to offset for the slow evenings.

When I stopped at Chemainus to check at the murals again, I stopped at the Waterwheel Park at town centre and saw this red bark tree shown on bottom photo. It was the Arbutus tree. The Arbutus trees are natives to B.C., evergreen trees that can grow up to 25 metres tall. Apparently the Native people using the bark and the leaves for medicinal purposes. That reminded me of my grandparents in Seribudolok, Sumatra. That they were very good at using some bark and leaves for medicinal purposes to cure many ills. Arbutus trees bear fruits with lot of seeds. Birds and other animals like to eat the fruits and spread the seeds everywhere at the same time. Arbutus trees are very hardy and can grow in any location where the seeds happened to drop, even on the rocks, hills near the beach, on the windswept areas. Because the roots are very invasive, deep and strong, can grow even if the soil is minimal. I was beginning to notice that Arbutus trees were growing every where in and around Nanaimo. With the distinct red or brown bark, they looked strong and beautiful trees, especially the ones that grow on the rocky hilly windswept areas.

(Top photo): Terminal "A" construction at Horseshoe Bay.
(Middle): On top deck of the "Queen of Cowichan".
(Bottom): Arbutus tree at Waterwheel Park, Chemainus.

Monday, May 14, 2007

Coal Harbour


Dear Ngurus br Tarigan,
Last Easter (April 2007) Debra and I went for a walk to "Coal Harbour" in Vancouver. We had not seen each other for quite sometime. She lives in Port Coquitlam and commutes to Vancouver to work everyday by "West Coast Express" train. But that day she came in by car, and we went straight to Second Beach in Stanley Park. It was a lovely day.

We went for a long walk to "Canada Place" by way of "Lost Lagoon" and "Coal Harbour". Lost Lagoon is a man made lake, and was used to be part of Burrard Inlet. It was severed when the Causeway was built to connect to Lions Gate Bridge. So the name of "lost" lagoon. Lost Lagoon is now a bird sanctuary for ducks, loons, swans, the endangered blue herons and many other waterfowl creatures. We can also see some Canadian Geese here that are not flying south for the winter. They usually go south for the winter to the States and as far away as to Mexico. I took this photo of the blue heron with telelens, and use the bush as cover. There were used to be raccoons in the bush around the lagoon, but we could not see them anymore. Apparently they have been moved to a safer place. Because there were visitors got bitten by the raccoons. The raccoons look friendly and cute, but can be very dangerous with their sharp claws and teeth. I have seen people fed the raccoons with food whilst others took pictures of them.
Coal Harbour had been busy with high rise condominium constructions for a number of years. But it was the seawall that was constructed first, the promenade for pedestrians and cyclists. Actually it was done so for marketing purposes. People can stroll and enjoy the beautiful scenery along the seawall, and at the same time people could see the attractiveness of the location and would become buyers of the residential condominiums being built. Coal Harbour is a very popular place for strollers now. There are spacious lanes for pedestrians and for cyclists separated by garden beds. There are a lot of benches for people to sit down and enjoy the views. People as well as cyclists were all out in numbers that day to enjoy the good weather. Vancouver has a very good bike routes, starting from Coal Harbour, to Stanley Park, English Bay, Science Centre, Granville Public Market, Kitsilano and right up to UBC, about 40 km long. I do ride my bike a few times in summer to Coal Harbour and Stanley Park. And I plan to do it again this summer, starting from June 22 to September 21.
Many boats tied at the piers at Coal Harbour, privately owned and as well as for rent to visitors to Vancouver. There are also piers reserved specifically for harbour cruises and for ferry to Squamish and Victoria, foot passengers only and no cars.
The seaplane "West Coast Air" is also stationed at Coal Harbour for destinations to Nanaimo, Victoria and other British Columbia coastal regions. You can hear the roar of the seaplanes departures and arrivals every so often. The fleet is using a 6 and 18 passengers DeHavilland twin otter air crafts. Debra and I had a leisure walk and took some pictures along the way.

There are a lot of high rise residential condominiums now completed at Coal Harbour, and the construction activities seemed to be slowing down. Except at the far east end near Canada Place still busy with construction. There is this new Vancouver Convention Centre expansion project not far from the existing one. It is being built over land and water, so foundation need to be built on piles, reportedly up to 1000 of them driven deep into the ground. Those are a lot of piles. Evidently it will cost $700M to built including a cruise terminal, and will triple the convention centre's existing capacity. It will be completed in the spring 2009. And will serve as international broadcast centre for the 2010 Winter Olympics and Paralympic Winter Games in Vancouver.
Next to this project is the construction of hotels and residential "Fairmont Pacific Rim", 48 floors high, consisting of 415 room hotels, and 175 residences. Apparently the cost of the residences are very expensive from $2.2M-5.9M per unit.
We stopped at Waterfront Centre Mall and had Greek food for lunch. The mall is underground next to Fairmont Waterfront Hotel and Pan Pacific Hotel at Canada Place.
On the way back to the Second Beach, we went for a detour and passed by the West End area where we used to live for the first 6 months upon our arrivals in Canada. It was a penthouse, fancy that, at Haro Street near Cardero. The building was still there, after all these years. It seemed well maintained, because it looked not a day older. We continued to walk to English Bay and checked all the activities on the beach. We probably walked about 15 km altogether that day.
(Top photo): The endangered blue heron.
(Middle): "West Coast Air" sea planes.
(Bottom): The new convention centre, one block away behind us.

Monday, May 7, 2007

Me

Dear Douglas Campbell,
The following is a poem by Chairil Anwar, paraphrasing it into English:

Me
When my time comes
No one's going to cry for me
And you won't, either
The hell with all those tears!
I'm a wild beast
Driven out of the herd
Bullets may pierce my skin
But I'll keep coming,
Carrying forward my wounds and my pain
Attacking
Until suffering disappears
And I won't give a damn
I want to live another thousand years
By Chairil Anwar, March 1943
-----------------------------------------
(Original poem in Indonesian Language):

Aku
Kalau sampai waktuku
'Ku mau tak seorang kan merayu
Tidak juga kau
Tak perlu sedu sedan itu
Aku ini binatang jalang
Dari kumpulannya terbuang
Biar peluru menembus kulitku
Aku tetap meradang menerjang
Luka dan bisa kubawa berlari
Berlari
Hingga hilang pedih peri
Dan aku akan lebih tidak perduli
Aku mau hidup seribu tahun lagi
Chairil Anwar, March 1943

Chairil Anwar was born in Medan, Sumatra in July 22,1922 and was probably one of the most famous Indonesian poets. He died in April 28,1949 at the young age of 27. His works convey a powerful, vitalistic individualism. "Aku" is a cry for freedom and life, and was interpreted as a call to arms during Indonesian Revolution against Dutch occupation in 1945-1950.
During my High School, our Indonesian Language teacher at drama lesson, asked students to perform in front of the class on some of Indonesian selected poems. A few of us including me selected "Aku" by Chairil Anwar. Trying to remember the lines was easy, but dramatizing them was the tricky part, because it was very subjective and depended on our imagination. I did not have a chance to perform, but I was captivated by the performance of a fellow female student. She started "Aku" with a normal voice, progressing to yelling and screaming which included raising fist and stomping of the ground, then concluded with a voice of determination.
Many students giggled and smiled watching at her performance. But I was very impressed. I was preparing to similar line of interpretation, without the raising fist and stomping bits, although it certainly added some drama to the rebellious tone described in the poem.

Tuesday, April 24, 2007

Going Overseas


Dear Ricardo Morales,
When it was announced that I had won the scholarship to study in Australia, I leaped with pride and joy, and felt like I was in seventh heaven. But then before departing, I had a lot of trepidation, apprehension and nervousness of going there. I was only a "kampong" boy, suddenly going to a strange foreign big city. I did not know what to expect. I had never met a "white man" before, and now I would be expected to live amongst them. It was a scary thought. It would be a gargantuan cultural shock when I arrived there. To top all of my anxieties, I had only 5% mastery of English language. I would be totally lost when I arrived in Australia.

Armed with only a pair of tailored made suites and a small briefcase containing my documents, I boarded the "Qantas" airplane from Jakarta to Sydney, where I would be undergoing a 6 months training in English language. After a brief stop over in Perth, the plane approaching Sydney around 11 night time. It was a scene that I had never seen before, glowing lights everywhere, it was like in seventh heaven alright, with stars twinkling from horizon to horizon. It was just sheer beautiful.
Checking at the customs, I was very grateful that a representative from Indonesian Consulate came to greet me when I arrived. He said that I would be taken to a hotel and picked up in the morning to go to the office. True enough that I was taken to a hotel and picked up in the morning to be brought to the office at downtown Sydney. There were 4 other new students there. And this beautiful Australian woman from the office took us for the tour of the city. Something like she showed us how and where to catch transportation, shopping, gave us a few telephone numbers and addresses and treated us to lunch.
It was with great relieve when I met these 2 Indonesian students at the English class. Apparently they started a month earlier: Wahban Wibisono from Jogjakarta and Sugeng from Banyumas, both from Java Island in Indonesia. It was an enjoyable situation for me ever since, "no more worries". We were placed in separate accommodations in Sydney, so that to learn English and Australian way of life quicker. Luckily we were not too far apart from each others. I stayed furthest away at Lennox St in Newton with Mrs Blauw, a room and board accommodation. My place was not far from railway station, so I took the train everyday to class at downtown Sydney. Whilst they stayed in separate places in the Darlington area near to The University of Sydney and had to come to class by bus. There were 6-12 students in the class coming from different part of Asia: Indonesia, Thailand, Sri Langka and India. The student numbers kept changing, as some students graduated and later on some more coming in to join. We learnt mostly about conversation English from 9 am to 3 pm Monday to Friday.

I was so much impressed about the city of Sydney, that everything seemed to be very orderly. The houses and buildings were all nice and beautiful. All the streets were wide and smooth. The traffics were very orderly including the pedestrians. There were a lot of luxurious cars on the roads, and surprisingly very few honking noises I could hear, unlike back home. And most of all about the people, they were all very polite. The women were all very beautiful, and the men were all very handsome and all of them wore nice clothes. I could not help but admired all the things I saw and experienced. After a few months in Sydney, I met more Indonesian students, and got informed that 9 students altogether including me would go to Perth Western Australia to study. I felt more and more at home, and felt confident to go around by myself, getting to know and learnt about the beauties and intricacies of Sydney.
The three of us most of the time went for lunch at Hyde Park just next from the classroom building. It was a shock for us when we saw for the first time young people at the park kissing and necking during their lunch break. So many of them, oblivious to everything in their surroundings. Many passers by seemed to be ignoring them too. But for us it was just incredulous amazement.
We also got to know what "fair dinkum" Australians doing during the weekends. That they liked to watch their Australian football rules, went to the racecourses and bet, stopped at the pub and drink lagers. And most of all they liked to go to the beaches. They were sun worshippers, and all the beaches were always crowded. The smell of suntan lotions were everywhere. We went to Bondi and Manly, the most popular beaches a few times with fully clothed, because the weather was still too cold for us and we felt more decent and comfortable. We saw these swim suits these Australian girls wearing, like wearing nothing. Another incredulous amazement. But it was with awed and admiration when we watched the surfers for the first time, on how they managed to stand on the tiny surfboard and glide on top of the waves with such skills. It was like a dance, displayed in wonderful beauty and grace. It looked like a lot of fun and excitement.
We went sightseeing every weekend, particularly we liked the ferry ride to Luna Park and to Taronga Park Zoo from Circular Quay ferry terminal. We also liked to go for a walk at Royal Botanic Gardens just next to the Sydney Opera House. One thing I was beginning to notice that most of the young people carried portable radios with them and I could hear the same song played over and over again. Later I learnt that it was "The Beatles" that was played over the radio day and night. It was not really my type of song, but got the hang of it later and like it a lot.
There were many Dutch population in Sydney, mostly evacuees from Indonesia during the second war and becoming permanent residents. There was and Australian-Indonesian Association (AIA) in Sydney that really good for new students to join. We could meet some Australians and practise our limited English without too embarrassed about it. I found it that English was the hardest language to learn, compared to the 3 local dialects I learnt back home. Sometimes I wondered out loud how these Australians managed to understand each other when they talked so fast. We met this nice lady Helen at one AIA meeting one time. She invited us to go for a picnic one day to Lyne Park at Rose Bay about 40 minutes drive from my place. She picked all 3 of us up, and we brought along some lunch. There she showed us on how to play cricket, a very popular sport in Australia.
There was an Indonesian language lecturer at The University of Sydney who gave an open invitations to Indonesian students one weekend to come to his residence in Katoomba near Blue Mountains National Park. We hitched a ride with an Indonesian student who already had a car to go there. It was about 1 1/2 hours drive away, and we met quite a number of students there. After lunch we went for a hike to the National Park and saw "The Three Sisters", a three peak rock formations that had legend in them.

As the time for the conclusion of English language was nearing, Helen invited us to come to her place in Ashfield for a farewell party. She said that it was not far from railway station. We came by the train and sure enough that we found her place quite easy. She stayed with her parents that were also members of AIA and were there to greet us. Helen was a divorcee and had one daughter that stayed with her too. They were very friendly toward us. They were the Dutch evacuees that now called Australia home. We cooked Indonesian food with the ingredients she already bought. We made a mess of everything there as most of Indonesian way of cooking, but we cleaned them after lunch. We probably put too much chilly in the food, but they said it was lovely. They also had a swimming pool at the back, so every body except the parents went for a swim. We entertained them with Indonesian songs later in the afternoon, and also sang the Australian folk song "Waltzing Matilda" together. To close the day off Wahban sang his favourite song "Santa Lucia" solo with his booming tenor voice, that I am pretty sure Luciano Pavarotti would be envious to hear. I was. The six months in Sydney passed by very quickly.
Top lr: Me, Wahban, Sugeng near Hyde Park.
Bottom: Helen's place in Ashfield. Me on left holding guitar. Standing lr: Hasan Basri, Bachtiar Abbas, Helen, Basita Ginting, Ryantho, Wahban Wibisono and Sugeng.
Sitting lr: Mustakim Abdurrauf and Sunoro.